Zhang Zhong Jie’s cafe, nestled within the vestiges of a military fortification, serves as a poignant symbol of the juxtaposition between rich historical heritage and contemporary economic struggles. As visitors approach the coffee shop, they are met with an array of rusting tanks laying claim to the ground, remnants of a tumultuous past. This characteristic landscape is emblematic of Kinmen Island, a territory that has long been influenced by the geopolitical tensions between Taiwan and China. Despite being a mere six miles from China’s coast, Kinmen Island’s isolation is palpable, bordered by a stretch of choppy water and marked by anti-invasion structures that starkly underline the ongoing conflict.
For the past five years, Zhang’s cafe flourished, largely thanks to a steady stream of mainland Chinese tourists who each day brought life into the otherwise isolated island community. „Initially, we welcomed two to three busloads of tourists daily,“ Zhang recounted, reminiscing about the optimism that accompanied the cafe’s opening in 2018. However, this optimism has since waned as increasing political hostilities have dramatically impacted tourism dynamics.
The advent of the COVID-19 pandemic brought with it an unprecedented halt to travel, particularly affecting Kinmen, which had already been grappling with the implications of mainland China’s travel restrictions. In August 2019, Beijing effectively forbade its citizens from visiting Taiwan, a decision that was exacerbated by the pandemic-related bans on group travel from the mainland in early 2020. The economic consequences of these disruptions have been dire for Kinmen’s tourism-dependent economy. Zhang noted, „The absence of mainland tourists has been devastating.“
Historically, Kinmen has played a significant role in the military narrative between Taiwan and China, serving as a frontline during the Cold War. This legacy is preserved in the landscape; abandoned military structures have been transformed into cafes and souvenir shops that embrace their heritage. Residents today capitalize on the island’s storied past by creating unique experiences that intertwine nostalgia and commerce. Cafes sell war-themed rations, while artisans craft products from decommissioned weaponry. This adaptation, however, hasn’t insulated the local economy from the harsh realities of the current political climate.
With Kinmen located strategically close to mainland China—approximately 1.8 miles away—the local economy has always been closely tied to mainland visitors. Consequently, the restriction of these tourists significantly stunted economic growth, leading to job losses and the shuttering of businesses. As a tour guide on the island pointed out, „Our economy relies heavily on connections to the mainland.“
As ferry services tentatively resumed, tailored primarily to Taiwanese passengers, hope lingered in the air that some normalization might occur. Yet, the hope quickly turned to apprehension following a February incident where tensions escalated after the tragic deaths of two Chinese nationals, further straining relations and creating an environment of fear.
Official statistics reveal the stark decline in tourism numbers. The Taiwan Mainland Affairs Council reported that the influx of Chinese visitors plummeted from over 400,000 in 2019 to fewer than 18,000 by 2023. Local entrepreneurs echo this concern, with noodle shop owner Beddy Chang stating that 80% of her clientele once hailed from China. This dramatic shift has led to drastic adjustments in business strategies, with some, like Chang, seeking international markets to sustain their operations.
Adapting to Change: Survival Strategies
The resourcefulness of Kinmen’s residents shines through in the face of these changes. Business owners have pivoted to alternative revenue streams, exporting products to Taiwan’s main island or hosting events to attract local consumers. Wu Zeng Yun, who previously thrived on the sales of „bomb knives,“ confesses to a transition that aligns with the current economic climate. „Without mainland tourists, we take our business out,“ he explained, emphasizing the need for adaptation.
However, such transitions are not always straightforward. Some entrepreneurs, like former restaurant owner Lu Wen Shiung, found themselves contemplating alternative livelihoods like fishing and boat tours. Unfortunately, this avenue has also presented its challenges, especially after China’s Coast Guard increased their presence in the area, making it perilous for local fishermen. Lu’s accounts of navigating through tense waters serve as a stark reminder of the operational risks involved.
In recent months, diplomatic dialogues have opened avenues for possible tourism resumption, with a group of mainland tourists visiting Kinmen in late September. While this marked a small victory, skepticism remains prevalent among residents who question whether the bygone days of thriving tourism will ever return. Nevertheless, local guides like Chen Hua Sheng remain cautiously optimistic, believing that the resilience of Kinmen’s spirit and its historical significance could eventually rekindle interest from the mainland.
The intertwined fates of Kinmen Island’s rich history, cultural identity, and economic livelihood underscore the complexity of its situation. As political winds shift, so too do the opportunities and challenges facing this unique destination. The question remains — will Kinmen navigate these turbulent waters successfully, or will its historical legacy become just another echo of the past?
Napsat komentář