In the competitive and demanding world of London’s restaurant scene, establishing a long-lasting presence requires more than just serving good food. This is the challenge that David O’Connor and Joe Mercer Nairne, the masterminds behind the successful Medlar in Chelsea, took on with the opening of Cornus. Situated on the rooftop of The Ice Factory at Eccleston Yards near London Victoria, Cornus immediately stands out with its ideal location, top-notch cuisine by executive chef Gary Foulkes, and a commitment to quality that transcends trendy gimmicks. The journey towards Cornus was not an easy one for O’Connor and Nairne. Despite their desire to expand beyond Medlar, numerous obstacles such as Brexit, the COVID-19 pandemic, and fierce competition from larger operators with deeper pockets hindered their progress.
When an opportunity finally arose to partner with Grosvenor and secure the rooftop of The Ice Factory, O’Connor and Nairne saw it as a chance to create a distinctive dining destination. Overcoming the challenges of high property costs in London, the duo transformed the 19th-century warehouse into a 70-cover restaurant within a relatively short six-month period. This quick turnaround marked a significant departure from the launch of Medlar over a decade ago, showcasing their growth and adaptability as restaurateurs. Cornus embodies a refined evolution of the Medlar concept, focusing on ingredient-led dishes that highlight the best of British and European seasonal produce with a contemporary twist. Chef Foulkes‘ dedication to sourcing high-quality ingredients and treating them with respect is evident in dishes like the native lobster with hand-rolled spaghetti, which makes efficient use of every part of the lobster for maximum sustainability and flavor.
Unlike many upscale restaurants that rely on external investments, Cornus is entirely self-funded by O’Connor and Nairne, with strategic backing from the Grosvenor Estate. This hands-on approach comes with its fair share of financial challenges, especially during times of economic uncertainty. Rising food costs and supply chain disruptions pose recurrent hurdles for the restaurant, requiring a resilient mindset and a focus on long-term goals. O’Connor’s extensive experience in front-of-house roles and Nairne’s culinary background have equipped them to navigate these challenges with determination and grace. The decision to self-finance Cornus underscores the duo’s commitment to their vision and principles, even when faced with tight budgets and unforeseen obstacles.
Cornus‘ menu encapsulates a celebration of British culinary excellence, with dishes like seabass tartare, roast chicken with langoustines, and a dessert lineup crafted by head pastry chef Kelly Cullen. Each dish reflects the restaurant’s dedication to quality ingredients and innovative flavor combinations, setting it apart as a culinary institution in the making. As the team looks towards the future, plans to fully open two outdoor terraces by 2025 are on the horizon, with a continued focus on refining kitchen and front-of-house operations. By prioritizing quality over trends and establishing a distinctive identity, Cornus is carving out its own path in London’s culinary landscape. O’Connor’s unwavering confidence in the team’s ability to deliver on their vision sets the stage for Cornus to become a revered institution known for its outstanding food, wine, and service. By upholding their core principles and fostering a culture of excellence, O’Connor and Nairne aim to solidify Cornus‘ reputation as a must-visit culinary destination for years to come.
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