Alaska, often lauded for its breathtaking landscapes, harbors a captivating allure for nature enthusiasts which is hard to resist. The ethereal combination of glaciers, majestic whales, and, notably, the elusive bears draws visitors from across the globe. Among these iconic spectacles, bears tend to be the hardest to encounter, rendering opportunities for direct observation precious and thrilling. Thus, when I stumbled upon a bear-watching excursion from Ketchikan boasting nearly guaranteed sightings, my curiosity ignited, prompting me to seize this unique opportunity.
The adventure commenced with a somewhat straightforward yet delightful transition from the luxury of the Regent’s Seven Seas Explorer, where my cruise had docked, to the more rugged atmosphere of Alaska’s wild. After a brief bus ride from the Ward’s Cove cruise pier, I found myself at a dock, eager and ready to board an agile jet boat operated by Adventure Ketchikan Tours. The anticipation of a one-hour journey to the bear-watching grounds amplified my excitement, as I understood that the remoteness of the destination significantly enhanced our chances of spotting these magnificent creatures.
Nestled in a picturesque bay where a rushing whitewater stream converges with the ocean, the chosen location provided an optimal fishing ground for bears. The stream’s rapid current spells an irresistible invitation for salmon as they valiantly swim upstream to spawn, essentially creating a buffet for the bears who would appear to cull the cheapest and most nutritious meal available. As we glided over the mirror-like waters, our knowledgeable guide enriched the journey with fascinating tales and historical insights—such as the connections made by the famed explorer George Vancouver with the area’s indigenous tribes and some intriguing details about a lesser-known U.S. Navy base located within Behm Canal.
Notably, the Southeast Alaska Acoustic Measurement Facility, housing an array of underwater sensors, intrigued many as it silently pursues its mission of monitoring naval submarine activity. While thrilling in its own right, many of us aboard the vessel were keen to divert our full attention to the main spectacle—nature’s most formidable fishermen.
Our arrival at the Neet’s Bay Hatchery filled me with eager anticipation, leading us along a muddy path that weaved intricately through the landscape. The journey offered glimpses into the lives of Alaska’s bears; we were shown tree trunks with evident claw marks from climbing bears and the clandestine dens serving as refuge from potential threats. My hopes ran high, yet I mentally braced myself, recalling past wildlife excursions where nature’s subjects remained elusive.
To my amazement, as we reached the stream, our patience was rewarded immediately. Standing midstream were two magnificent black bears, each weighing around 350 pounds, engaged earnestly in the task of fishing. We maintained a respectful distance, approximately 20 yards back, thanks to a sturdy rope line between platforms designed for optimum viewing. Interestingly, the season provided some assurance: with salmon spawning from late July through September, the bears seemed largely indifferent to human presence, wholly focused on their feast.
Our knowledgeable guide carried bear spray, a prudent measure though seldom needed, which reassured me of the safety precautions taken throughout our experience. Unlike the vivid images many entertain—crowds of bears gorging in a frenzy—we witnessed a modest gathering; over the course of an hour, a mere four bears made their elegant entrances and exits, prompting moments of awe and a sprinkling of disappointment amongst the group. After all, earlier adventures had seen me shivering on platforms devoid of any bear sightings at all.
Watching the bears was a spectacle of nature’s raw beauty. Each one displayed remarkable prowess, silently honing in on a fish before taking it to a nearby rock for processing. It was fascinating to observe how the bears instinctively opted for female salmon, laden with roe, ensuring they consumed enough fat to support their hibernation needs later. Interestingly, the construction of the Neet’s Bay Hatchery further exemplifies conservation efforts in Alaska, aimed at preserving the salmon population crucial to sustaining the region’s wildlife.
After our hour of excitement concluded, the return journey did not bring whales, as some had hoped, but instead, we passed a lively colony of Steller sea lions loud and playful atop their rocky perch. As we made our way back to Ketchikan, a collective satisfaction enveloped the group, many thrilled to have witnessed the bears in their natural habitat, fulfilling a long-dreamed desire.
As we stepped back onto the solid ground of Ketchikan, I found my thoughts drifting towards warm, dry clothes and a comforting hot beverage—the perfect conclusion to a successful adventure, steeped in the thrill of witnessing Alaska’s wild inhabitants engage in their everyday drama.
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