In a world uncertain from a global pandemic, the concept of opening a restaurant might seem daunting to most. Yet, Ayesha Kalaji, the visionary behind the vibrant Queen of Cups in Glastonbury, embraced this challenge with an enthusiasm that has turned her establishment into a culinary sensation. The restaurant, which specializes in Middle Eastern cuisine, opened its doors just after indoor dining restrictions were lifted on April 2, 2021. Kalaji recalls this precarious time: “We were anxious, but we wanted to transform the restaurant experience into a serene escape.”
This quote highlights not just her ambition but also the compassionate approach she adopted when establishing Queen of Cups—focusing on community, warmth, and an inviting ambiance amidst the chaos of the world outside.
Tasked with resurrecting a 17th-century coaching house, Kalaji faced immense challenges. In a playful acknowledgement of the undertaking, she quipped, “If anyone asks if you want to turn a 17th-century coaching house into a restaurant in six weeks, say no!” This humor underlines a significant point: transforming a historical building is a labor-intensive project that often tests the limits of its operators. Balancing the needs of a local pub while pivoting towards an innovative restaurant experience required not only physical labor but also deep emotional investment.
Kalaji’s journey included painting, recipe testing, and even enlisting her mother for physical help, showcasing a grassroots dedication that resonates with many small business owners.
Named after a tarot card associated with feminine energy and emotional connectivity, the Queen of Cups takes its thematic inspiration from Glastonbury’s spiritual roots—an aesthetic that invites a diverse clientele. The restaurant has even embraced its quirky patronage, welcoming characters from the ethereal to the arcane: “Our only rule? Just wear shoes!” This whimsical approach has endeared her to the community and created a space where individuals can freely express themselves.
Kalaji’s ability to craft an inclusive atmosphere demonstrates a profound understanding of the local context—Glastonbury boasts a rich tapestry of spirituality and culture. She recalls the joy of receiving their first booking from a group of Druids, marking the onset of what would become an enchanting chapter for Queen of Cups.
Revolutionizing Middle Eastern Cuisine
Kalaji’s culinary background, having honed her skills at esteemed establishments like Parsons Nose and The Palomar, informs her innovative approach to the menu. Her dishes, rooted deeply in Levantine cuisine, push boundaries with ingredients that might surprise even the most seasoned diners. “Customers have begun to understand ingredients like sumac and za’atar, so I dive deep into my store cupboard to wow them,” she explains.
Her commentary on texture and flavor illustrates her commitment to elevating Middle Eastern cuisine, breaking down barriers of perception along the way. Many Western diners are yet to explore some of these culinary textures; for instance, the rich, slime-like consistency of Mulukhiya. Explaining and showcasing such ingredients provides an educational pathway to appreciation and enjoyment.
Queen of Cups has gained widespread acclaim, earning a Michelin Bib Gourmand and securing the title of ‚Best Newcomer‘ at the Estrella Damm Top 100 Gastropubs in the past year. These accolades serve as a significant badge of honor not just for Kalaji as a chef but for the entire restaurant, showcasing the successful marrying of culinary artistry with community spirit. Her humble reaction to the recognition—“I’m just making great hummus!”—is a reflection of her passion and realization that exceptional cuisine can emerge from simplicity, almost playfully downplaying the intricacies of her culinary achievements.
The impact of these honors has been palpable, attracting new patrons while still cherishing her local supporters. Kalaji emphasizes the importance of community involvement, stating that “your locals are the ones that look after you in the depths of winter,” reminding us that the heart of a restaurant often lies in its patrons and advocates.
As Queen of Cups firmly establishes itself as a staple in Glastonbury, Kalaji’s focus remains on cultivating her bonds with the local community. With aspirations to expand her team and share her culinary passions with an even wider audience, she embodies a philosophy where collective success is paramount. “When I win, everyone around me wins,” she concludes, emphasizing the intertwined destinies of individual and community success.
Queen of Cups stands not just as a restaurant but as a beacon of resilience, creativity, and community spirit—a true celebration of what a dining experience can embody. In every corner of this quirky eatery lies a story of determination, inclusivity, and a love for culinary adventure, inviting all who walk through its doors to partake in a unique dining journey.
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